This is a video tutorial discussing the basics of photographing non-star trails stars and a little about meteor showers. It covers different topics into depth: high apertures, lens choice, slow shutter speeds, low / high ISO / ASA sensitivities, best camera settings, suggested exposure settings, tripod combination choice, triggering methods, and so much more. Example photographs are also included in this tutorial as well.
Download Lens Sharpness Chart in PDF format at this link: files.me.com/j.n.spina/t5ip3j
Download Lens Sharpness Chart in DOC format at this link: files.me.com/j.n.spina/gfdxlo
Update: One of the subscribers found yet another funny typo. At 20:32, on the second line from the top, the “y” is missing from “batter”. The correction is “battery”.
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Music: Glittering Blackness by Explosions in the Sky (looped)
Duration : 0:21:28
Nevermind! I knew …
Nevermind! I knew it was Explosions! Great taste and tutorial.
@lilynick1 6. yeah …
@lilynick1 6. yeah but don’t forget red back spiders, brown snakes, funnel web spiders, and koalas. they bite, hiss, and scratch.
Thank you for …
Thank you for uploading this. I’m going out now to try my luck. Luckily no bears here in Australia to worry about. Might get kicked by a kangaroo if anything …..
@TechCrazy your …
@TechCrazy your answer is in the video. watch it again.
Just curious why we …
Just curious why we need sandbags even in the “Mirror -Up” mode triggered with a remote control.
@CragScrambler you …
@CragScrambler you still can place the sandbag on top of viewfinder housing and around the lens. if you’re using a WA lens, you don’t have to tilt the camera up too much.
Sandbag is useless …
Sandbag is useless seeing as camera is mostly pointing directly upwards
Why did you ask a …
Why did you ask a question in the beginning of the video instead of finishing it?
Your answer is at 16:32.
Why did you turn …
Why did you turn noise reduction off?
Yup, correct. …
Yup, correct. Remember this, 15-18mm range at F/8 is where image quality is at its finest but not so at other focal lengths and apertures. It doesn’t mean the lens is totally useless, you can still use it but remember you’re sacrificing the image quality.
@ 15-18mm f/8.0 …
@ 15-18mm f/8.0 would that be the same for shooting images during the day time ?
Truthfully speaking …
Truthfully speaking, any wide angle prime / zoom lens with a maximum aperture of ƒ/1.4 or ƒ/2.8 are more suitable for nighttime time lapses (especially for astrophotography). Using F/8.0 on the 10-24mm will require you to crank the ISO all the way up, which will result in loss of details due to graininess.
The chart lists lenses with apertures and focal lengths that prevent chromatic aberration and diffraction.
We’re not “pros” but upload the images on Flickr then private message us the link.
Thanks ,i have a …
Thanks ,i have a nikon d7000 with the lens mentioned above .i have been doing night time time lapse,whats the best wide angle lens to use with the d7000 for this?(“15-18mm range is safe to use at F/8.0.”) is that a fixed chart or can i change the mm’s & f/ and avoid chromatic aberration? or do i have to stay at these #’s to avoid? is there some where i can send you a few pictures to check out and see whats goin on in my image world?would love some pro feed back ,thanks sean
Yup, that’s correct …
Yup, that’s correct, that’s the maximum focus distance. If you want the foreground to be in focus at infinity, make sure they’re further than 2ft or 0.5m, voila.
Chromatic aberration, yup, 15-18mm range is safe to use at F/8.0.
@Lilkiwiguy87 …
@Lilkiwiguy87 Thanks ,i have the nikon DX AF-S 10-24mm f/ 3.5-4.5 lens.when i turn it to infinity just to the right it reads first number 2 ft/ 0.5 m, so thats the maximum focus point ?I have been doing a time lapse and loved your time lapse video.Also with the 10-24mm f/3.5 4.5 i think the chart for sharpness said 15-18mm @ f/8 to avoid that chromo (what ever stuff)once again thanks you guys ROCK SEAN
The maximum focus …
The maximum focus distance is the first numbers on the left on the scale. For example, on 24mm ƒ/1.4G, 1m and 2.5ft are the maximum focus distances. Anything further than 1m or 2.5ft (i.e. 5ft or 2m) appear to be in focus at infinity. This cool trick only works with wide angle lenses (35mm and below).
Thanks Super …
Thanks Super helpful.I am new to photography and not sure about lens maximum focus distance?@ 17:56 in the video they talk about putting something in the foreground and saying it will be in focus as long as it is further then the maximum focus distance? how do i find out what that would be ? Any help would be great
Great stuff!! Got …
Great stuff!! Got some spectacular pictures, thanks to this tutorial. Well done!
Many thanks for the …
Many thanks for the video, very helpful indeed.
Really.
Really.
Bears? Really? : …
Bears? Really?
Ususaly i do this …
Ususaly i do this with an 8mm fisheye lens on APS-C, works great, but the lens lacks on a 2.8 apperture. Now next month i’ll put the Canon 10-22 on the test with this, time for the winter sky. Orion is at it’s best now!! Nice turorial man, like allways you make pretty awesome tuts! Thanks!
When going past …
When going past infinity to the left, you are actually focusing backwards to the maximum focus distance (first number on the focusing scale on the left).
what could be out …
what could be out of infinity?? (i.e. 9:56)
Great Video! Helps …
Great Video! Helps a lot!